Oregon Road Trip: Dig for Fossils, Meet Dinos & Haunt a Ghost Town
Each turn on an Eastern Oregon road trip presents a new view of the region. Driving through valleys and over peaks carved by ancient floods, you’ll encounterÂ flat range where cattle graze, basalt mountains that stretch thousands of miles into the blue sky, yellow wheat fields bending with the breeze, white windmills generating power for a growing urban population. Truly unusual sights dwell here, yet it’s not too difficult to find a room, even during summer’s peak travel season. It’s like a little slice of undiscovered Oregon — so get out there. Here’s a trip to remember.
Eastern Oregon Road Trip with Kids, Stop by Stop:
Shop a tiny Powellâ€™s at Country Flowers Soda Fountain, a one-woman emporium of gifts, lattes, great kitchenware, beauty supplies and yes, a very small Powellâ€™s Bookstore. Really! It’s a book-lover’s oasis.Condon CafÃ© offers microbrews on tap, bottles, pizza, salads and fine service.
Wash the grit off at the restoredÂ Hotel Condon, a welcome sight after a day driving along hot, dusty roads. This 1920-era hotel offers spacious rooms for families, cable, and yes, hot showers. Truly one of my favorite little Oregon hotels. Wine and cheese hour and a continental breakfast is included in the nightly rate.
Drive back in Time. From Condon, it’s a 20-minute drive south along the John Day Highway, a valley with giant basalt mountains cut by floods, flanking both sides of the road, until you reach the town of Fossil.
Find fossils in the aptly named Fossil. Behind Fossil High School, youâ€™ll find Oregon’s public fossil beds, where you can scrape and brush aside layers of dirt and rock to find your very own plant fossil, such as the needles of a metasequoia that fell 33 million years ago. The fossil tools are free for use by anyone, but there is a $15/four-person family admission fee.
Meet ancient residents at Oregon Paleo Lands Institute, which has a full-size PlesiosaurÂ found right in Fossil, along with little puzzles and playthings for younger children. Don’t miss the family activities at OPLI, if you can arrange your visit around one of the hikes.
From Fossil, you have two good choices. You can drive for another hour south toward the Painted Hills, which are stunning; I recently wrote about the Painted Hills.Â Or you can drive a half-hour west Â for an otherworldly hike at the Clarno Unit of John Day Fossil Beds, just 18 miles west of Fossil; giant rock outcroppings almost look like a sci-fi high-rise made of stone (those little holes/windows look they belong in alien condos, for sure). It’s a great place to picnic.
Heading north again, don’t miss a chance to creep through theÂ Oregon ghost town Shaniko, where the town’s Â remaining buildings are painted in almost-giddy colors. You can still get lunch or ice cream in town though — without scaring your wallet.
From here, itâ€™s about a 90-minute drive to The Dalles. Eat at Burgerville, just for me. Drive back toward Portland along I-84, through the Columbia River Gorge.